Let's Fashion Talk

On the forums, we spend a lot of time talking about what we wear and what our favorite styles of clothing are, but that's only half the battle.  You still need to ensure you have the right foundation garments, such as bras, underwear, and shape wear.  This article will focus on finding your proper bra size and addressing common fit issues most women experience. 

First, we're going to start with some measurements.  In order to measure yourself, you will need a soft measuring tape as it will provide the most accurate measurements.  To begin, remove your bra since this will give you better results.

Now, measure directly underneath your breasts on the rib cage, making sure to keep the tape level all the way around your torso.  Pull the two sides together until they meet and lie flat against your body, but be careful not to pull too tightly.  The tape should feel snug, but not constricting.  Round up the measurement to the nearest even number.  For example, if you measured 31", then round up to 32.  This will be your band size.  However, if you measure slightly over an even number, such as 32 1/4" or 32 1/2", you may want to round down because bras do lose elasticity over time and will only become less supportive with frequent wear.  If you are on the borderline between two sizes, personal preference will dictate which band size you should purchase.

Next, measure around the fullest part of your breasts (usually across the nipples) and round up to the nearest number.  For example, a measurement of 40.5" would be rounded to 41".

Finally, subtract your band size from the measurement taken across your bust.  Using our current example, 41 - 32 = 9".  Then, use the chart below to find your corresponding cup size:

The woman from our example would be a US 32I or UK 32G.  Unfortunately, measurements can only provide you with a starting point on what size to try.  Some bras are cut smaller or more generously in the band or cup, which can affect what size you will need.  Remember:  if you size up in the band, you need to size down in the cup.  For example, if the woman from the above example wanted to wear a 34 band, she should try a US H cup or UK FF cup.  The reverse is true for sizing down a band, e.g., a 32G/I becomes a 30GG/J.   
 

Double Check the Fit

Now that you have a general idea about what size you need, take a moment to review some of these tips to ensure that you have the proper fit.

1.    Your band should fit snug (but not tight) on the loosest set of hooks.  The elastic in all bras deteriorates with everyday wear, and you will find that your bra will last longer if your start with a snug band on the loosest set of hooks.

2.    The band of your bra should be centered across your back with the straps sitting firmly at the tops of the shoulders.  It should not ride up the back or cause the straps to fall off the shoulders as this will mean your breasts hang low in the front.  At least 80% of the support from your bra comes from the band, so it is important that the band fits perfectly.

3.    Adjust your straps.  Again, the majority of weight is supported by your band, but you may need to adjust your straps looser or tighter to provide you with optimal support and comfort.  Properly fitted straps will pull the cup against your breast so that it sits nicely under clothes and supports the full breast tissue.

4.    Check your underwire.  The underwire of the bra should encase the breasts and rest firmly against your ribcage, especially in the center where the underwire meets (known as the "center gore").  The wire should lie flat, completely separating your breasts.  On the side of your torso, the wire should not mash your breasts or dig into the skin.  Many women do not realize that there is breast tissue on the side that needs to be scooped into the cups as well.  When the bra fits properly, the cup of the bra should enclose the breast tissue and be filled out and shaped by your breasts.
 

Common Problems

Majority of women are wearing a bra with a band size that is too big and a cup size that is too small.  Thus, if the average woman buys a 34D bra, she most likely wears a 32DDD/E.  Here are a few easy ways to tell you are in the wrong bra size:

• Your breasts pop out the bottom of the bra, especially when you raise your arms.

• Your breasts overflow from the cups of the bra causing "muffin top" or lumps.

• The straps of your bra give you deep shoulder indentations.

• The band rides up in the back.

• Your breasts are smashed together at the center of the bra or compressed by the underwire on the sides.

• The underwire digs into the your breasts or sides.

• You have frequent infections or rashes underneath the breasts.
   

If possible, find a specialty lingerie store in your area that can properly fit you and make sizing recommendations.  There's no substitute for being able to try a bra on and see how it feels before purchasing. 

--Written by Erica of A Sophisticated Pair